Wednesday, January 23, 2008

Greetings from Temuco, Chile

Welcome to our opening post and first experience as Blog publishers. Some of our readers already know who we are and why we are writing this blog. For new readers, we are in Temuco, Chile until August to teach, research, and share what we know about teaching another language. Our students are future English teachers. We are able to be here through a Fullbright Scholarship awarded to Blaine. He is the one who will conduct research and share best known methods. Fran will teach two college level credit courses in English. And did we mention we will also enjoy traveling, making new friends, learning the culture, and polishing our Spanish. How lucky can we be!


In this blog we will share our experiences, insights, and travel suggestions. Let us know what you enjoy reading and want to know more about. You can always contact us personally via our email addresses: blaineackley@comcast.net or fran.beebe@comcast.net .

First Impressions: Living through the ambiguity and learning to love Chile by Fran

We arrived in Temuco with an embarrassing 10 bags, all of them at maximum size and weight. I guess this is not bad for two people for 7 months but my mind kept repeating: too much stuff, too much stuff. Everyone was polite and never said anything harsh as in “Why do you North Americans need so much stuff. “ The biggest hassle in the entire 24 hours and three flights to Temuco was an exasperating moment in Santiago when we were unable to produce the receipt proving we had paid for the bags all the way to Temuco. (Lesson #1: Chile is a country of receipts. Everyone from the grocery cashier to the bus driver gives you a receipt - or sometimes two. Hang on to your receipts. You never know when someone will ask you to prove you paid.) After about 20 minutes of wrangling, using very poor Spanish on my part, the supervisor accepted the inevitable i.e., these people know so little Spanish the effort is not worth it. She let us through without paying a hefty charge (approx USD$300), but with the inevitable scolding: In Chile: hang on to your receipts.

OUR tiny APARTMENT

We arrived on January 1, 2008. Our friends gave us a warm greeting and whisked us off to our apartment – it took two cars for the 10 bags!! We live in the heart of Temuco in the central district. This means we are close to everything we need but it also means we are in the center of all the noise, traffic and general commotion. Anyone who has visited our house in Hillsboro knows our house is not large by American standards. Nonetheless, this whole apartment is a just little bigger then our kitchen-dining room area. However, the architect managed to divide the apartment into 5 rooms. We have two bathrooms – go figure! The kitchen is wide enough for one person only. It also includes the washer/dryer combo unit and the hot water heater that doubles as the heating unit during the winter. Check out the slide show.

Temuco - Big Little City

Temuco is a big city but not a big city. It is urban and modern but then again not. It is the regional center, full of commerce; busy, bustling, and growing but the economy is primarily agriculture with a strong tie to the land and the Mapuche (indigenous) culture. It is not unusual to see the Mapuche driving their horse carts through the streets, selling their produce at the feria (open market), visiting in the central plaza (the center of community life) or living in their unique houses in the surrounding country-side.

Like many things we have encountered so far in Temuco, commerce is full of contradictions. You can find many conveniences here with grand department stores and malls on the scale of the U.S. Each carries a full line of merchandise and offers a revolving credit card with special points, prizes and deals to sign up or purchase with their card. Yet we found only two models of an iPOD stereo player in the whole city.

There seems to be an overabundance of banks and credit offices with several on every block. Yet they all seem to be full of people at all times of the day. How can that so people have that much business to do in all those banks all day long?

Cell phones rule the day with everyone having the apparatuses tied to their ears. Distributors are found in just about every store. Yet the land phone lines are strictly controlled. You are required to have your national “Identity Card” to obtain a home phone. Additionally as foreigners, we were required to show our work contracts. If you are using a cell phone to call a land line, you must dial a special code.

Small businesses grease the economy but the supply network is incredibly segmented. One can find computer equipment for sale just about everywhere. However, one store sales the hardware, another sales accessories, another sales electronic add-ons and another sales the printer inks. If you need system administrative assistance that is yet another store. Software? You got it now: go to another store. Everyone gets a cut and the entrepreneurial spirit thrives.

The People We Have Met

Temuco is the regional hub but it is not a tourist town. We rarely see other obvious looking gringos on the streets. (Lesson #2 “Gringo” has a positive connation in Chile. It simply means someone from outside especially North American or Europe). Languages other than Spanish or Mapuche are not commonly heard. So in some ways we appear as an oddity to the locals. Our Chilean friends have been invaluable helping us to decode the culture, to learn where and what to shop, to get services to our apartment, and to find our way around.

As we stumble along with our broken Spanish everyone - to the person - has been patient, friendly, and helpful. Besides Temuco, we have traveled to the South a few hundred miles and to the east into the Andes near the Argentina border. The people we have met have been kind but serious, hardworking, and straight forward. At times people have stopped us to ask where we are from and if they can talk English with us. They are always pleasant, always polite – never in a hurry.
Travelers worry about personal safety and for good reasons. There are always places where one needs to be careful, like the crowded market or crossing the street in traffic. We have not felt the usual traveler’s anxiety over our personal safety. The harshest advice I would give a foreigner in Chile is: Be vigilant in traffic! Even the nicest person becomes a crazed fiend behind the wheel.

Monday, January 21, 2008

Travels in Northern Patagonia

The following stories are our reflections from our trip to Northern Patagonia aboard a 40 foot motor cruiser from June 6-10.

Patagonia Ecology & Eco-Activism

We learned that the Patagonian temperate rain forest is one of only four in the world - New Zealand, British Columbia, Olympic Rain Forest - yet the Patagonian rain forest is by far the most diverse and the most threatened.

For example, because there is so much rain and fresh water from the melting glaciers coming into the fjords of Patagonia, the first three meters of depth have a greater concentration of fresh water. This greater concentration of fresh water results in life forms that are unknown anywhere else in the world. Some of the pictures Fran took will give you an idea of the immensity of this land. Also, please remember we visited only one set of northern Patagonian fjords for just four days.

Yet, the pressure to develop Patagonia with dams and fish farming is relentless. If the dam projects, slated for Aysen, is allowed to go forward, it will mean roads and electrical lines spread across this unstable and thin layer of top soil that is sure to damage the unique life forms and diversity of life that is present in Patagonia now. You can go to
http://www.globalresponse.org/ or http://patagonia-under-siege.blogspot.com/2007/11/chiles-anti-dam-horseback-protestors.html to learn more about the project and its effects on the human and flora and fauna of the region.

Huinay - A Patagonian Research Foundation

Situated at the confluence of a river and the sea, the Huinay Foundation is minimally funded to research on the unique bio-diversity found in northern Patagonia. Fran and I were impressed by the staff at the foundation the research they are doing. You can access more information about Huinay at http://www.fundacionhuinay.cl/

Living on the frontier

Using only the resources that are available to them a few hardy souls try to eke out a living from the sea or from the land. Working with little other than their own ingenuity, these folks seem to live their lives free of the humdrum monotony of life in the city.