Do You Have Your Boleta (Receipt)?

An interesting artifact of the Pinochet years is that EVERYTHING is privatized. Everything! For example, curb side parking along pubic streets is a concession. Every street has someone who “manages” the parking. This person’s main function is to ensure that you are charged the appropriate amount for parking. He might help you get in or out of your spot but that requires an extra tip. The parking person is paid a percentage of how much he is able to collect. He reports to a boss who owns several streets, who reports to a boss who owns several bosses, and the pyramid is built. Everywhere you go someone is collecting something for their share of whatever you are using or buying. Thus, save your boleta (receipt) because the next person might ask you to pay for the same service and you need your proof.

This is probably my most favorite boleta of all times. It is the receipt from the "Tunel de las Raices". About 80 km due east of Temuco, this tunnel cuts through the heart of the Andes between Manzanar and Lonquimay. As you travel the 4km under the mountain range, you leave the lush, wet greenness of the western Andes and encounter the barren, dry pampas range of the eastern Andes.

Imagine our surprise when we found out the interstate is also a concession section by section. Ruta 5 looks just like our Interstate 5 except that every 100 – 150 KM you stop to pay a toll of about $3.50 for a car. Now I am not entirely sure how this works but apparently the concession owners maintains their section and in return keep a portion of the fees. And you better have your boleta because there are toll booths along the way to catch people trying to slip onto the interstate from a back road. When you finally leave the interstate, your boleta is surrendered, time stamped and given back to you. Don’t ask me why; the whole process is a curiosity.

Boletas are also a way to provide employment for large numbers of people. Let’s say you want to buy shampoo. First you go to the counter where the various shampoos are kept BEHIND the counter. No touching, the sales clerk will help you. You select a shampoo and are given a boleta. Next you go stand in line to pay your boleta. Upon doing so the cashier gives you a new boleta. This you take to the area where your shampoo is being wrapped. You surrender boleta #2, are given your shampoo – and you guessed it: you are given boleta #3. It is important to plan enough time for even the simplest purchases and be sure you get your boleta.